Appreciation for @marcjacobs for articulating a literal “tilt shift” that we need. As the world goes doo-lally so too do the proportions of buttons, collars, cuffs, bust lines and skirt hems. A cartoonish moment for laughable times complete with lash-laden sleep mask eyes. Wake me up when it’s all over…
Also, I just want it all. As simple as that.
Chatsworth House @chatsworthofficial is splendid on most occasions but it has just been made even more splendid, as @erdem brings his SS24 collection back to the physical roots of its inspiration point - namely the textiles archives of Chatsworth and the extraordinary life, style and attitude of Deborah “Debo” Mitford, the late Dowager Duchess of Devonshire who lived here
IMO it’s one of Erdem’s best collections to date and no surprise as the original source material is so rich, coupled with the designer’s own detailed deep dive approach.
The collection takes on even more meaning, sitting in the Regency guest bedrooms in amongst the 18th century wall coverings, archive interior fabrics draped and arranged and with Debo’s own personal belongings dotted about like her Stubbs and Wootton Elvis slippers (she was a big Elvis fan hence the ode to his embroidered costumes), locally made pink couture dress and Victorian bug jewels that also informed Erdem’s resort 24 collection.
In the chintz room, you have a dress made out of retired curtains, then over embroidered in jet by Cecily Lasnet, great-granddaughter of Debo and daughter of Stella Tennant and now returned back to its ancestral home. I find that super poignant…
-
Too hot to wear the full Barbour collaboration but I’m happy I got to wear at least the quilted floral layer and walk through the original inspiration source
Days of 📚 in the 🌞 beckon soon (never have I been this excited about a bona fide summer holiday…) and @miumiu ‘s got me started with Alba de Céspedes’ Forbidden Notebook (an Elena Ferrante fave !). Within about five mins of reading, I felt seen 😆 (see last slide)
Miu Miu are also celebrating Sibilla Aleramo’s A Woman and Jane Austen’s Persuasion in their #MiuMiuSummerReads kiosks around the world.
If you pop over to Covent Garden Piazza today, they’re giving away these tomes alongside cute ice lollies and old school book straps
Mum and Dad away night, English garden tips @heckfield_place (getting inspo for ours rn) and some pretty pretty shoes
Thank you @manoloblahnik for the lil mid-week getaway
The reaction online to Virginie Viard’s sudden departure from @chanelofficial has largely run along the lines of “Hallelujah!” and “Good riddance!” and then a guessing game of wishlisting names.
It’s wholly undeserving for a smart successor choice in the context of the wake of Karl’s death (imagine a ballsy appointment back then that would have invited a different kind of furor!). A female creative director who had a wonderful working relationship with the ateliers (I saw that in person), intimate with the long time seamstresses of Chanel and at the metier d’arts subsidiaries, and thus became a faithful caretaker of Chanel codes, aligned with Coco herself. Someone who has only ever known Chanel her whole working life and somehow managed to deliver healthy financial growth amidst a tricky climate.
If it hasn’t always been Creative with an obvious capital C, perhaps that wasn’t what she was tasked with.
In any case, whilst I love a juicy musical chair designer chat, I’m dismayed by the utterly needless vitriolic hate for a woman people hardly even know… (perhaps there’s a reason why she conducted so few interviews)
The best of luck to Viard. As for who’s next ?
Whatever the appointment will be, there’s no doubt it’s a tough crowd out there…
“The outlines of who we’re supposed to be and the imprints we leave behind, walk side by side.”
After a month of cruiiiiiiiise, weather issues and travel, it felt good to come back close close to home and be invited to @craig__green ‘s studio to see him return to show with incredible feats of emotive tactility - those collages leather pieces, the baby bib slash hankie tops, the macramé netting tabards and their chintzy scenes
Green’s father passed away six months ago and his thoughts about a father’s expectation of their sons and ideals of masculinity and also just the act of returning to show (amidst a very tough creative environment in London rn) made the show all the more powerful
But beyond sentiment and emotions… these were incredible clothes !!!
One of my favourite moments of @dior#DiorCruise was seeing Sam McCoach of @lekilt again as she collaborated with the maison for the show
Sam took a four year break from her brand (working for COS in the interim) and last year chose to relaunch Le Kilt with an even more purposeful take on bringing this iconic Scottish garment and craftsmanship direct to a customer, who is primed and ready to don a real deal kilt that isn’t made of synthetic fabrics or created without provenance.
I spoke to Sam for @systemmagazine and she talked about how @mariagraziachiuri and her daughter @racheleregini were interested in women in kilts as a symbol of rebellion (they’re originally a men’s garment) and “taking traditions into the now”.
On my trip to Scotlantf I resurrected my OG Le Kilt to pair with a denim bar jacket and thought about tradition and heritage and how their weight FEELS good when you’re wearing these pieces.
🏴🏴🏴
