How close were you to Tamayo? Well, the swell was really north. Maybe a bit too north for sunset. Thinking all the heavy locals would be elsewhere, I opted to paddled out. The current was strong and sweeping down the point. Before I knew it, I was caught taking set after set on the head. Something to be expected at sunset beach. What I didn’t expect was to see, was a tiny dot of a human fly down the point from an “undisclosed” location. A goofy footer with a helmet on. He wasn’t pumping, rather performing a calculated highline, with precision he dug his heels into the upper region of the wave’s crest. I did some of my own math and calculated we would eventually cross if I kept my own line. I had a choice. Change direction and paddle into the white water only to get smoked to shore after 15 min of straight paddling, or run like a rat to the shoulder. Without a hesitation, I took the cheese and thought I was in the clear. I made it out the back and figured the surfer was unhindered. Winded, I made it back to the lineup and I hear roaring coming from the inside. “Who tha fuck was that in my line?!” I already knew. “Shit.” I thought to myself. That’s fucking Tamayo Perry. Gaddmanit u rat bastard Cliff. U know better. As he sprinted towards me, I did what any 19 year old Hilo boy would’ve done. I sat up on my board and braced for impact. As he got within feet of me, he looked in my eyes and asked if it was me. I told him it was in fact me and that it was my fault. Calming down, he paddle right up and took his helmet off. He showed me his scars on his head from nearly dying just the year before and preceded to yell at the top of his lungs, “this shit is for fucking real out here.” He put his helmet back on and paddled away. Over the years I would share waves with him at other reefs, one being a slab that was lost to the lava here on big island. I never asked him if he remembered me being that kid but I always had a feeling he knew. Thats how close I was to Tamayo, close to getting an ass beating. Rest in power to a great teacher for so many including myself. We truly lost a fucking real one. ♥️⚡️
Neck still hursts from staring at the sky the entire day. It was my 1st total solar eclipse 🌚 I’m new I don’t know what to do🙋♂️ Although I did know the answer when @cliff_kapono asked me if I wanted to go surf under a total solar eclipse with team @themegalab at @wacosurf_tx easy YES. Full experience live on my YT links in the stars man 🤩
