While the ancient and the modern worlds seem far apart, one category of objects, jewelry, has not changed that much since antiquity, lending ancient jewelry an appeal that few other artifacts possess (image 1).
However, the public fascination for ancient jewelry, fueled by widely reported archaeological discoveries of ancient gold, have often reflected modern, often gendered preconceptions rather than historical realities. Indeed, women have repeatedly been made to wear ancient jewelry sets found in important grave sites. For example, a set of 5th century BCE gold jewelry (40.11.7–.18, see image 2), which was found in an Etruscan tomb from the ancient city of Vulci (Italy) and acquired by the Met in 1940, was publicized by having a beautiful lady wear the jewelry (image 3).
The trend had originated in the early days of archaeology, when Heinrich Schliemann, who first dug at Troy (modern Turkey), decked out his wife Sophia in “Priam’s treasure” found in 1873 (image 4). Around 1912-1915, the extra-ordinarily rich treasures of the so-called princess “Larthia”, found in her 7th century BCE tomb in the Etruscan city of Cerveteri, were donned by an Italian model and immortalized in a dramatic photography (image 5), which was rediscovered by Dr Maurizio Sannibale, curator in the Vatican Museums.
While such displays play on stereotypical expressions of both ancient and modern femininity, they are important testimony to the enduring appeal of ancient material culture.
Image 1: patchwork of images 3-5.
Image 2: Etruscan gold Jewelry set, MMA 40.11.7-.18
Image 3: Unknown model with Etruscan jewelry group from a tomb in Vulci, Metropolitan Museum, 1940. Photographer: Hans van Nes.
Image 4: Sophia Schliemann with the so-called Priamos Treasure, 1873.
Image 5: “Larthia”, Regolini Galassi Tomb, Vatican Museums, ca 1912-1915. From: M. Sannibale, "Giovanni Pinza a cento anni dai “Materiali per la etnologia antica toscano-laziale”", in RendPontAc 87, 2014-2015, fig. 4.
#TheMet #MetGreekandRoman #fashion #ancientjewelry
#Etruscans #women #etruschi #troy #schliemann
#archaeology #ancientgreece #anatoly #turkey
#museivaticani #gold #goldjewelry